The remains of Ayodhya, The Ram Janmabhoomi

Picture courtesy- Google

This post is a part of my Backpacking India series. It is really amazing to learn the difference in experiencing the places from what we see in the news, books and the reality. It is just an attempt to narrate my personal experience of journey through the most revered Hindu divine destination, one of the seven sacred cities and the place which is center of disputes- Ayodhya, where Lord Rama was born.

Prayaga or Triveni Sangam where the three rivers meet!

Boat queue for Triveni Sangam

Second oldest city of India after Varanasi- Prayaga is another holy city. One of the four theerthas (sacred places) Prayaga or Triveni Sangam is just 83KM from Varanasi. Triveni Sangam is the meeting point of three sacred rivers Ganga, Yamuna and Saraswati (subterranean). One of the four places where the popular Kumbh-mela is held every 12 years sangam is believed to have soul cleansing powers hence a sacred bathing place. Also called as Theertharaja (king of holy places) Prayaga is the birth place of Soma (Moon), Varuna (God of rain) and Daksha Prajapati (Son of Brahma). The city has a long history dating back Vedic period as the location where Brahma performed a sacrifice and hence the name Prayaga. Mahrishi Ved Vyas wrote Siva Puarana here in this place. 

A triad of Goddess- Vindhyavasini, Kali and Ashtabhuja in Vindhyachal

River Ganga and the sandy riverbed on the way to Vindhyachal

As I had mentioned in my earlier post the my journey this time ended up as a classic pilgrimage. The places I visited were temple towns and each temple there has a interesting legend associated with it. One such triad of goddesses is Vindhyachal. 70KM from the religious city of Varanasi, Vindhyachal is another sacred place for the believers of Goddess Durga. The presiding deity Vindhyavasini (The Goddess who lives on Vindhyachal) is instant bestower of benediction.

Sarnath- where Buddha turned the wheel of Dharma

Sarnath archaeological ruins and Dhamekh Stupa in the background

Most popular excursion from Varanasi is Sarnath. Another sacred place where Buddha turned the wheel of Dharma. Buddha delivered his first sermon in a deer park just outside of city of Kashi. He probably chose this place as it was an important crossroads of that time, an established religious and commercial hub of those days. People who visit Sarnath doesn't realize it was an important place for the believers of Lord Shiva. Sarnath- as it is called today is the short form for Saranganatha which means Lord of deer, ie another name of Lord Shiva. Though Sarnath is popular as Buddhist pilgrim center the name came from a small shrine dedicated to Saranganatha which is a KM away from the popular imposing Dhamekh stupa. That is how there was a deer park in this place. On Hindu auspicious days this temple gets many visitors otherwise is a very quiet place.

Kashi Yatra- Tales of the ancient temples!

Durga Temple and Durga Kund of Varanasi

Tales of ancient temples in Kashi! That means- this post is a long read! Hope it keeps you interested!

Visit to Kashi is much more than collecting pictures of skinny bearded old men bathing in river Ganga, or ash clad Naga sadhus or the prevailing dirt. It is much more, at least for Hindus. And that is the reason I always mention I was visiting Kashi- to behold the image of divine, not Varanasi for sightseeing. People talk about disordered, crowded, unhygienic jungle of temples called Varanasi. But, for Hindus who's vision is beyond the lanes and ghats of the city, Kashi is an ordered and structured universe with Vishwanatha temple as the center. Every temple here occupies the right place in that sacred geography. Well, that structure is a bit twisted by the destruction during muslim rule but sanctity prevails.

Kashi Yatra- Canines of Kashi :)

Austere clad sadhus are favorite subjects to photograph in Varanasi? For me there were many favorite subjects including canines! I am sharing few pics here. Are you surprised? Why am I talking about dogs of all other sacred things in Kashi?

Kashi Yatra- The popular Ganga Aarti

Tons of websites appear in the result list when you google for Varanasi. And the most mentioned 'must-do' item will be Ganga Aarti in the evening on Dashashwamedha Ghat (Read more on ghats here). Well, it is a beautiful, grand, elaborate, touching event in Varanasi although it looks a bit dramatic and touristy. As I mentioned earlier my trip was for seven days in Kashi and every evening I watched this event with full enthusiasm and devotion. I didn't care about the mosquitoes, about the light colored clothes I was wearing, that stinking cow dung right beside me and the people who were determined to sell the music CDs to me. Everyday I was there at 5:45PM.

Kashi Yatra- One evening on Harishchandra Ghat

Well, Kashi is city of very interesting things. People come here- to die, to perform rituals, to pray, to get married, to smoke, to experience and what not! One evening I was walking back from Asi ghat to Dashashwamedha ghat and was immersed in some thought. I was walking near the Harishchandra ghat and a big crowd screaming with excitement brought me back to the world! Curious I was went looking for the reason for that kind of excitement near a cremation ground. Yes! Harishchandra ghat is a cremation ground. (Read more about Varanasi Ghats here)

Kashi Yatra- Kashi as I saw, a photo tour!

As I mentioned in the earlier post, Kashi is much happening place. For tourists, ghats (see post Experiencing Ghats)are the main attractions though there are few other attractions like Banaras Hindu University campus which is walkable from Asi Ghat. Kala Bhavan museum and the new Vishwanatha temple built by Birlas are located here. The Durga Shaktipeeth in the city too is quite popular ancient temple. There are few other temples in the city. But, after visiting the ghats and Kashi Vishwanatha Temple nothing seems very interesting. I was quite amazed to see the inflow of foreign tourists here. Sometimes tourists make great pictures too :) Here I am sharing 20 pictures of Kashi Ghat as I saw! 

Boats everywhere!

Backpacking India III- A Classic Pilgrimage!

Backpacking India- Part III was much awaited. Two years ago I wanted a monsoon-visit to Maharashtra which didn't work as planned because my mother had to undergo knee replacement surgery. Many things happened after that! With the loss of a parent I found myself as a victim of a disaster. The feeling of void was paramount and I thought of finding peace in praying for my departed Dad. Couldn't really take the restlessness anymore and I started with the plan of visiting only Varanasi- that is what I told my family. But, then continued for almost 70 days until I was left with no money in hand. On my way, crossed the states of Uttar Pradesh, Bihar, Jharkhand, West Bengal, Odisha, Andhra Pradesh and Tamil Nadu before reaching home in Bangalore!

Seven days of my Kashi Yatra!

Call it Kashi, Varanasi or Benaras ... it remains the same ... crazy ... captivating ... endlessly fascinating ... and holy ... One of the oldest surviving cities in the world- Varanasi is defined and protected by the rivers Varuna and Asi. These rivers prevent the evil from entering the holy city! Varanasi then was an important religious city surrounded by the complex Hindu mythological legends ... later became hub for foreign tourists ... the recent popularity being the general elections ... Yeah! In future, it will be a "smart city" of India!? I am in Varanasi. Actually, my trip is  to Kashi- The city from where one makes the final crossing to the far shore! 

Yatra- Chitrakoot, Proof of Ramayana

Chitrakoot a village of religious importance interestingly half lies in Madhya Pradesh and half in Uttar Pradesh. Chitrakoot is one of the most important place mentioned in the great Hindu Epic Ramayana. I have always been interested in knowing Hindu Mythology and so thought of visiting the places on the route of Lord Rama's journey from Ayodhya to Lanka during his exile and rescuing his wife Sita Devi.

Yatra- Maihar, A Shaktipeetha

Maihar is small town popular for the Devi Sharada temple on the Trikuta hill. The temple is one of the 51 shaktipeethas, Mother Sati's necklace fell on this hilltop where the temple is built. Mai means Mother and Har is necklace, so the name! The temple is around 5KM from the city. I was at Bandhavgarh National Park and thought of visiting Maihar on the way to Chitrakoot. I took a bus to Umaria (29KM) at 9:00AM, then a train to Katni (57KM), then a train to Maihar (63KM). Reached at 3:45PM! Soon took a hotel room and left for the temple. People were curious to know why was I there in the first place. Some were happy to tell me about the temple. A lodge suspiciously looked at me and said he didn't have vacancy. After going back and forth between the few hotels available the autorikshaw driver somehow got me into a hotel which wasn't good for the money I paid.

Yatra- Amarkantak, the birth place of holy River Narmada

I am nostalgic about Madhya Pradesh again! Yeah, thought of posting one more destination from MP- a pilgrim center. Well, the very holy place Amarkantak. Located at the point where Vindhya and Satpura ranges meet Amarkantak is one of the lesser known pilgrim centers in India though it is the birth place of River Narmada and also river Sone.

Yatra- Omkareshwar Jyotirlinga, Mandhata

Omkareshwar is an island of shape Om, a Hindu religious symbol, formed by meeting of two rivers Narmada and Kaveri. It is known for a temple dedicated to Lord Shiva- Omkareshwara. The temple is one of the twelve revered Jyotirlinga shrines in India. 

Seven Sacred Cities of India- Ujjain

Kashi, Kanchi, Maya, Ayodhya, Avantika
Mathura, Dwaravati chaiva saptaita mokshadayika

My Mother always talks about Seven Sacred Cities and four sacred teerthas (sacred places) of Hindu religion. So, I decided to visit those cities and places during my travel. These seven cities are Varanasi, Kanchipuram, Haridwar, Ayodhya, Ujjain, Mathura and Dwaraka. My travel to Madhya Pradesh presented me with an opportunity to visit Ujjain. I was thrilled.

Yatra- Manikaran, The hot springs

In Himachal Pradesh, though Manali is honeymooner's paradise, Kullu is referred to as Valley of Gods. Nearby Kullu Valley is Parvati Valley where a small religious town called Manikaran resides, main attraction here being a hot springs in the beautiful landscape. The existence of many temples and a gurudwara indicate it is an important pilgrimage center for more than one religion. A half-a-day or day-long excursion from Manali.

Yatra- Kullu, The valley of Gods

Kullu in Himachal Pradesh, popularly known as Valley of Gods, is a beautiful open valley created by River Bias. Surrounded by the great Himalayan heights Kullu lies on the banks of River Beas. Visiting Kullu is not only for pilgrimage but also for some adventure! River Beas is very popular for white water rafting. Well then ... time to get on a raft! whoo hooo!

Yatra- Hidimba Devi temple in Manali

Hidimba Devi temple in Manali, Himachal Pradesh, the most popular among Hidimba temples. The most powerful being in Kullu Valley. The 500 year old Dhoongri temple is built with wood and has a wooden pagoda with three tapering roofs. The doors and the outer walls are carved very beautifully and intricately. The Hidimba Devi image is in a massive rock cave. The temple is one of the five sites awaiting to be added to UNESCO World Heritage Sites list.

Heritage- Ancient city Kangra

Kangra, Himachal Pradesh is a historical town which is 18Km from Dharmashala. Once upon a time it was Nagarkot, the rich city founded by Chandravanshi Katoch Rajputs. It was a beautiful fort city of rich temples and vast treasure. Gazni Muhammad invaded the fort, looted the temples and took away the treasure as any other Muslim invader did. The Vajreshwari temple was the oldest and wealthiest temples in northern India. Gazni, and then Tughlaqs destroyed it along with the fort and the town. The temple is rebuilt and is still functioning. It is one of the Shaktipeethas. From Dharmashala I took a day-long excursion to Kangra and Masroor temples.